At the age of thirteen, Panjim became a part of my life due to monthly visits to Goa Medical College for treatment of Rheumatoid arthritis. This continued for a few years until I stopped the treatments. One injection was particularly painful due to the non-micro needles used back then. Consequently, Panjim wasn't associated with pleasant experiences.

In May 1972, I stayed in Panjim for twelve days, not on a vacation but in a hospital prior to follow-up treatments. Thus, I can safely share my observations of Panjim over the last fifty years.

My daily trips to Panjim began in 1975 after failing tenth grade (a story for another time). With time on my hands, I traveled via launch service from Diwar (Gazolin) to Panjim Navigation Department. Back then, Panjim still had a colonial atmosphere. The Portuguese word for officer, "empregado," was frequently heard, and siesta was observed by closing shops and offices between one and three in the afternoon. People leisurely enjoyed lunch and "cerveja" (beer) was popular.

Commercial Panjim centered around St. Tome square, also known as Tobacco square, where our small shop, L.A. Armacar, was located. Most dwellings were two stories high with tile rooftops. Hotel Mandovi and later Tourist Hostel were prominent buildings. Cars were few; "Ponte de Linhares," the bridge, was the entry and exit route to the city with a stop-and-go sign operated by the police. Restaurants served Goan food without Chinese or Mughlai influences; Udupi cuisine marked the first culinary change.

Now, fifty years later and back in St. Tome, memories flood in as I count the merchants (known as "negociante" back then) and recall their business practices. Most establishments have closed or changed, supporting the idea that businesses have a lifespan of about forty years unless they adapt.

Emotions stir within me as I accept that the square has retained its architecture but its soul and the surroundings have changed. I console myself that fifty years have changed me as well.